It’s 1690, and you’re standing on a sun-drenched hilltop in Xewkija, Gozo. Before you rises an imposing fortified villa, its limestone walls gleaming golden in the Mediterranean light. Armed guards patrol the battlements, while inside, one of Malta’s wealthiest families entertains guests with tales of their corsair adventures and merchant exploits.
This was the Gourgion Tower – part palace, part fortress, and completely unique. But unlike most noble residences that fell to time or neglect, this one met a far more dramatic end. Its story captures the essence of Malta itself: a tale of old wealth meeting new war, of tradition clashing with necessity, and of an island nation constantly reinventing itself.
A Corsair’s Castle
Giovanni Gourgion wasn’t your typical noble. Sure, he had the fancy title and the family connections, but he made his real fortune the old-fashioned way: by raiding Ottoman ships as a licensed corsair. Think less “pirate” and more “privateer with paperwork.” He was also the personal secretary to two Grand Masters of the Knights of Malta – talk about a career portfolio!
In 1690, Giovanni decided to build something spectacular. The result was a fortified villa that dominated the Gozitan landscape. But this wasn’t just about showing off (though there was plenty of that). The tower was built as a safe haven during the very real threat of Ottoman raids. Imagine a luxury panic room, but scaled up to mansion size.
See also : The cost of Maltese Fortifications.
The Lost Tower of Gozo: Pirates, Power, and Propaganda in 17th Century Malta
In the sun-drenched landscape of Gozo, Malta’s sister island, once stood a remarkable building that told a fascinating tale of social climbing, piracy, and architectural propaganda. This is the story of the Gourgion Tower and its ambitious creator, Giovanni Gourgion.
From Pirate to Power Broker
In the late 17th century, Giovanni Gourgion was the talk of Maltese society. A self-made man who built his fortune through trade and privateering (essentially state-sanctioned piracy against Turkish ships), Gourgion engineered one of the most impressive social climbs in Maltese history. By 1687, his family had established themselves so thoroughly that they owned palazzos in both Valletta and Mdina – the old and new capitals of Malta.
A Tower Built for Show
Around 1690, Gourgion commissioned his masterpiece: a fortified country house known as the Gourgion Tower. But this wasn’t just any wealthy person’s retreat – it was a carefully calculated statement of power and prestige. The tower combined practical defensive features with symbolic elements that screamed “old money” to anyone who cared to look.
Perhaps the most intriguing aspect was its series of eight small balcony-like structures that resembled medieval defensive features called “box-machicoulis.” These weren’t just for show – they contained spy holes and musketry loopholes, making them fully functional defensive positions. However, their inclusion was also a clever nod to the ancient noble families of Malta, helping Gourgion associate himself with the island’s traditional aristocracy.
Was it only show? Gozo had been invaded in 1551 by the ottomans loosing all of it’s inhabitants. That was embedded deeply in the history of the island, Maybe the stories Giovanni Gourgion heard in his childhood had left a hidden fear of an invading army coming from the ocean surrounding the island. See also : Why Malta built the fortifications, history rhymes.
A Touch of Dark Humor
Above the tower’s main entrance, Gourgion had a stone skull and crossbones carved – possibly a winking reference to his privateering past. Below it was inscribed “SUB AUSPICIS ANIMARUM PURGATORI” (Under the protection of the souls of Purgatory). This macabre decoration was accompanied by various coats of arms and religious inscriptions, creating an impressive and slightly intimidating entrance.
Art and Power
Gourgion understood the power of art as propaganda. He commissioned multiple paintings from the workshop of Mattia Preti, one of the most renowned artists working in Malta at the time. In one particularly bold move, he had himself and his wife Elena painted in full-length portraits within a religious scene for the church of St George in Rabat – placing themselves literally in the company of saints.
Power Couples and Painted Ceilings
The story gets juicier. Giovanni’s daughter Anna married into the de Piro family, creating one of Malta’s most powerful noble alliances. Their union brought together corsair wealth, merchant connections, and aristocratic prestige. The tower became a symbol of their combined power, hosting lavish events where Malta’s elite would gather under frescoed ceilings to plot business deals and arrange marriages.
An Unexpected Presidential Mention
Here’s where the story takes an unexpected turn. In 1961, President Dwight D. Eisenhower mentioned the Gozo airfield and its rapid construction while accepting the Hoover Medal Award for Engineering. This is believed to be one of the very few – perhaps only – times a U.S. President has mentioned Gozo in an official speech. At the time of the airfield’s construction, Eisenhower was commanding the Allied Forces that would soon launch their North African campaign.
The Price of Progress
Fast forward to World War II. Malta, Britain’s unsinkable aircraft carrier in the Mediterranean, desperately needed airfields. The Americans, arriving to help defend the island, identified the perfect spot for one. The only problem? A certain centuries-old tower stood in the way.
The noble family was offered a choice: £7,000 (about €641,340 in today’s money) or an exact reconstruction of their ancestral home elsewhere. They took the cash. Within days, centuries of history came tumbling down to make way for modern warfare.
According to some sources, the Americans had actually made a thoughtful arrangement regarding the tower:
- They reportedly reached an agreement with the owners before taking any action
- The stones of the tower were carefully marked during dismantling
- After the airfield was no longer needed, the Americans gave the owners two options:
- Have the tower completely rebuilt
- Receive financial compensation
The owners chose to take the financial compensation rather than have the tower rebuilt.
What Remains
Some architectural elements were preserved and are now housed in the Gozo Museum of Archaeology – silent witnesses to a vanished world. But the real legacy of the Gourgion Tower lives on in Malta’s continuing story of adaptation and survival.
The Ironic Destiny of Gourgion Tower: From Show of Force to Real Sacrifice
There’s a profound irony in the story of Gourgion Tower. Built in 1690 as a symbol of power and prestige rather than practical defense, it never fired a shot in anger during its 253-year history. Its elaborate defensive features – the spy holes, musketry loopholes, and medieval-style battlements – were more about impressing visitors than repelling invaders.
Yet in 1943, when real war came to Malta’s shores, the tower made perhaps its most meaningful contribution to defense – by sacrificing itself. The tower was demolished to make way for a crucial wartime airfield at Xewkija. While the airfield was only operational for a brief period (15 days), with just five days of actual combat operations, it played a vital role in the Allied war effort during Operation Husky, the invasion of Sicily.
What’s often overlooked in this story is the broader sacrifice made by the local community. It wasn’t just the historic tower that was given up – local farmers and residents had to surrender their lands for the greater cause. These ordinary Gozitans, whose names don’t appear in the grand historical records like Giovanni Gourgion’s, also made significant sacrifices for Malta’s defense.
The transformation of this site from a wealthy man’s showpiece to a crucial military installation reminds us that in times of real conflict, practical necessity often trumps architectural grandeur. The tower that was built to look defensive but never saw battle ultimately served its greatest defensive purpose by making way for modern warfare – a poetic end to a structure that had always balanced practical and symbolic purposes.
Visiting Today
While the tower is gone, Gozo itself remains a magnificent testament to Malta’s noble history. Visitors can still:
- Location of the Gourgion Tower
- Explore the Victoria Citadel, offering the same strategic views that made the Gourgion Tower location so valuable
- Visit the Gozo Museum of Archaeology to see preserved elements of the tower
- Walk the Xewkija streets where corsair-turned-nobleman Giovanni Gourgion once strode
- Experience the same breathtaking Mediterranean vistas that convinced a wealthy family to build their fortress-home here
The Last Word
Perhaps the most poetic footnote to this story is that the airfield itself is now gone too, replaced by modern developments. Change, it seems, spares nothing forever. But Malta endures, continuously reinventing itself while somehow maintaining its essential character – just as it has done for thousands of years.
In the end, that might be the real lesson of the tower they tore down: everything changes, but great stories – and great places – live forever.
Planning Your Visit: While the tower is gone, Gozo offers numerous other noble residences and fortifications to explore. The best time to visit is spring or fall, when the Mediterranean weather is perfect for exploring the island’s historic sites. Don’t forget to stop by the Gozo Museum of Archaeology to see the preserved pieces of this fascinating story.
